Ramblewood 2 Burner Electric Cooktop
Ramblewood 2 Burner Electric Cooktop, EC2-30
- 4 REVIEWS HEATS UP FAST
- 9 REVIEWS INSTALLED
- 4 REVIEWS KNOBS
- 3 REVIEWS COUNTERTOP
- 9 REVIEWS INSTALLATION
- 6 REVIEWS BURNER
- 6 REVIEWS COOKTOP
- 8 REVIEWS HEAT
- 3 REVIEWS STANDARD
3000W Radiant Burner
Top Positive Review
I ordered this unit approximately one year ago and finally installed it recently in a bar/kitchenette during a remodeling project in my basement. The only shortcoming is the lack of concise instructions for USA installations as it seems to be tailored to British installations. There has been questions regarding the proper amperage breaker for electrical service. I simple added up the wattage (1800 +1200) for the burners and ended up with a 15 amp breaker with 14 gauge wire for the service. (amps X volts = watts, or watts divided by volts = amps. 3000 watts divided by 240 volts is 12.5 amps. ) I’ve run both burners on high at the same time and the breaker does not (and should not) trip.
So if anyone is wondering what is the proper electrical service for this unit I can say for certain it’s a 15 amp, 240V breaker with 14/3 wire.
The 90 degree mounting brackets were a little too short for my installation (3/4″ laminate countertop) so I needed to straighten them out and re-bend them for my application. I think they’re designed for a solid inch and a half + countertop.
Also, I see people saying the knobs stripped out. The knobs need to be pressed down to rotate them, if not you’ll strip them out.
So, overall I am very pleased with the unit other than the vague instructions. Hopefully this review will help guide others who come after me 😉
Top Critical Review
Investigating in every way possible, I have come to a decision just to not use this appliance. I don’t know whether or not it failed on its own or if a guest broke it somehow, so I did not apply for a warranty replacement. There is no mention of warranty in any of the paperwork that I can find. Rather than bothering to return the item (expensive and fragile) I just bought individual fry pans and deep fry pots. All I can say is IF you decide to buy one of these (many obvious clones by multiple sellers) just know that the controls are also fragile items that are easy to break and are possibly not safe in a situation where guests or untrained people might use it improperly. There is a lock on each control where the knob must be pushed down to turn it on and advance the temperature, and that seems to be more than some people can figure out, so they force the knob to turn and break the control under the glass, causing it to short out and not turn off reliably.
5 Month Update:
Though my wife has enjoyed this cook top, yesterday we discovered it was not turning off with the knobs on top. This is scary because it’s located on a porch where it might not be noticed until the next use. I checked the Ramblewood website and decided I would probably have to ship it back, but I’d just two weeks ago thrown out the shipping boxes…. SO, I went to the hardware store and bought a 2-pole switch and box, etc. so we can turn it off manually. I hope that works… if not I will probably have to replace it.
Original 5-star review:
Much of our cooking is done outside on a porch simply to keep the air conditioning bills down. We had a two burner standard coil cook top out there but it (after 15+ years) burned out one of the coils and caused a small grease fire. This is not only to replace that cook top, but to dress up that cook station and make it easier to keep clean. I put a new countertop in cut the prescribed hole following the .pdf given. IT LOOKS AMAZING! And, of course, there is a lot more surface surrounding it. Turning it on first time was a real treat because it heats up VERY fast, and the cook surface glows red. Too hot to touch within a few seconds! My wife is very pleased with the setup and so am I. The only difficulty in installation was cutting the countertop hole, since the mdf material was very dense.
Looks very spiffy, The knobs cannot be turned on by accident, since you push down to turn it on, and then adjust to the desired heat. Ad said there was a scraper to help clean the surface, but instead we got two extra knobs, which is much better to me than a scraper, which we already have several of 🙂
Wiring was very straight forward, but of course you’re going to have to have 220V available. All real cooktops use 220V so if you are replacing a good one, you’ll have 220… DO NOT TRY TO WIRE THIS INTO A STANDARD 110V source, because that will not allow the heat to get even half hot enough to cook.
Of course this is the initial impression immediately after installation and first use. If anything goes wrong I’ll let you know.
UPDATE 10/20/18: After 4 months of daily use, not a single complaint! Looks just as good as the day it was installed and works like brand new
Customer Questions & Answers
I do not have a cut out on my counter, can I just put it on top of the counter to use it.
Answer: This one is made to fit into a specified size cut-out in the counter. It is also meant to be hard-wired into a junction box, it does not have a plug. There are other brands than offer stand-alone units that sit on the counter and plug into a standard 110 VAC outlet.
Is this a radiant, or an induction cook top? one review talks as if this were an induction cooktop. radiants heat up, induction uses magnets
Answer: Hi, this EC2-30 is a radiant unit.
Our induction model is called ICQ2-31C1, also available in Amazon.
The stove built in in the counter top? And what is volt use ?
Answer: it is 220/240 volt
I have a cut out of 10.68 by 19.1 inches. Will this still work with my cut out?
Answer: Hi, the glass panel dimension: 11.5″(W) x 20″(D). Cut out dimension: 10.6″(W) x 19.3″(D). You may need to work on the hole size. Thanks.
Hi, i have the 220v , it takes more then 30 minutes to heat up water, i see bubbles, but it never boils completely! what can i do?
Hi, the unit may not be wired correctly. In almost all the “low power” cases the customer may wired either H or N of the unit(they’re the two Hot), to the White from the circuit box. In this incorrect wiring the unit will still be “ON” but it’s actually pulling 110V only. Thus the unit is not functioning correctly & no??
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